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The Steam tug "Salty" built from Reliable Steams' plans Page 2
The Steam tug "Salty" built from Reliable Steams' plans Page 2
Each of the joints had to be mitred. The old bandsaw came through on that. That C-clamp there on the left
belonged to my father, it is around 60 years old and not it's first involvement in a marine project.
belonged to my father, it is around 60 years old and not it's first involvement in a marine project.
Then each of the joints had to be beveled for welding, this is very important with butting heavy plate. And a slight
airgap in between doesn't hurt either. There should be no voids in the joint.
airgap in between doesn't hurt either. There should be no voids in the joint.
It just all fits up like a puzzle.. One of the dangers of this type of construction is, if the tools are available. It goes
quickly and smoothly, which invites big mistakes in a hurry if one is not careful. One miscalc here can cause
buhkoo problems later on. The pieces are laid out and then the ends are laid out for cutting.
quickly and smoothly, which invites big mistakes in a hurry if one is not careful. One miscalc here can cause
buhkoo problems later on. The pieces are laid out and then the ends are laid out for cutting.
Some of the fitting as around the shaftlog and rudder tube presented some angles that were not possible in the
saw, so I had to resort to the acetylene torch. A piece of angle clamped as a guide made for some good straight
lines. The whole keel could be constructed this way, although it requires a lot more clean up. Warpage would not
be an issue.
saw, so I had to resort to the acetylene torch. A piece of angle clamped as a guide made for some good straight
lines. The whole keel could be constructed this way, although it requires a lot more clean up. Warpage would not
be an issue.
Next step was to Line all the pieces up on the pattern where they are supposed to be and then transfer the
outside profile to the floor, we gotta get that pattern out of the way so we can weld, and the pieces were not laying
flat because of the luan plywood. So lay out on the floor, then remove all the steel and get the pattern out.
Also, since we are installing the shaft log now, the keel needs to raised up to keep everything in line. After some
calculation, some wood strips cut in the table saw to the right hight did the trick. And we just line everything back
up to the lines on the floor, pesky luan pattern off to the side.
Luckily, we have a good flat floor here in the shop and this is the flattest area I could find. I'm confident it's not
surface plate flat, but we can always tweak it on the strong back, just have to make sure all the joints align with
one another.
outside profile to the floor, we gotta get that pattern out of the way so we can weld, and the pieces were not laying
flat because of the luan plywood. So lay out on the floor, then remove all the steel and get the pattern out.
Also, since we are installing the shaft log now, the keel needs to raised up to keep everything in line. After some
calculation, some wood strips cut in the table saw to the right hight did the trick. And we just line everything back
up to the lines on the floor, pesky luan pattern off to the side.
Luckily, we have a good flat floor here in the shop and this is the flattest area I could find. I'm confident it's not
surface plate flat, but we can always tweak it on the strong back, just have to make sure all the joints align with
one another.
Here it is all tacked up, less the stem. It is important to not get carried away welding on one side, just some good
heavy tacks about 1/2" long two at each joint, deep in to the vee. We want to keep from pulling the pieces with the
weld. It needs to be just strong enough to flip over to weld the other side. Help flipping it is imperative, it needs at
least 3 people to handle it and support it. 100% weld is not important at this point and not advised as it will pull the
keel out of shape. We can finish welding it when it is on the strongback. The welder is a Miller Millermatic 185 Mig
welder running at 4 on the heat and 45 on the wire feed. The little blocks under the keel to allow for the shaftlog
can be seen on the far end of the keel.
heavy tacks about 1/2" long two at each joint, deep in to the vee. We want to keep from pulling the pieces with the
weld. It needs to be just strong enough to flip over to weld the other side. Help flipping it is imperative, it needs at
least 3 people to handle it and support it. 100% weld is not important at this point and not advised as it will pull the
keel out of shape. We can finish welding it when it is on the strongback. The welder is a Miller Millermatic 185 Mig
welder running at 4 on the heat and 45 on the wire feed. The little blocks under the keel to allow for the shaftlog
can be seen on the far end of the keel.
Below: Laying out the shaft tube. The stick is the prop or 20" wheel and the faint red line on the pattern is the
proposed or supposed (not sure at this point) water line.
proposed or supposed (not sure at this point) water line.
Below: Showing how each joint is welded. No more welding will be done at this point. This big long keel tries to
pull every time I put the heat to it. It is still within 1/16" of the pattern and I'll quit while I'm ahead. It's strong
enough to handle and get mounted up on the strongback, where it can be welded 100% while held in position in
the fixture.
pull every time I put the heat to it. It is still within 1/16" of the pattern and I'll quit while I'm ahead. It's strong
enough to handle and get mounted up on the strongback, where it can be welded 100% while held in position in
the fixture.
Below: Next thing I want to do with the keel fully tack assembled is to transfer the outside profile to it, this
needs to marked permanently because once on the strongback, I would not be able to lay the pattern to it
again. I'll use the cut off wheel to make a line.
needs to marked permanently because once on the strongback, I would not be able to lay the pattern to it
again. I'll use the cut off wheel to make a line.
Below: Next step, Need to establish a surface for the skin to lay on next to the keel. We'll do this by running a
1/4" hot roll rod along that line on both sides of the keel. The 1/4" rod is just temporary. I'll only tack it on one
side and it will be accessible from above after the skin is on so I can get the metabo cutoff in the there to
remove the tacks. Left in, this would be a place where water could get trapped and start rusting. We want
nothing but a weld above and below. And of course, we'll cut it where the ribs lay to the keel on both sides. That
rod is very easy to work with, just tack and keep pulling it to the line.
1/4" hot roll rod along that line on both sides of the keel. The 1/4" rod is just temporary. I'll only tack it on one
side and it will be accessible from above after the skin is on so I can get the metabo cutoff in the there to
remove the tacks. Left in, this would be a place where water could get trapped and start rusting. We want
nothing but a weld above and below. And of course, we'll cut it where the ribs lay to the keel on both sides. That
rod is very easy to work with, just tack and keep pulling it to the line.
The keel is ready to go up in the strongback, so now it;s time to move on to the ribs. Go to page 3 where that is
explained.
explained.
