My Steamboat Project Link to steamboat show
The Steam tug "Salty" built from Reliable Steams' plans Page 3
The Steam tug "Salty" built from Reliable Steams' plans Page 3
Now on to the ribs. I took each rib in the CAD program and broke it apart into each section and made a drawing for
each individual piece. A bit over kill, but it made cutting out all the pieces much easier and probably more precise.
Even the stringer slots were dimensioned out on each. Sawed each piece out in the bandsaw. Correct angle,
labeled, with an arrow toward the keel.
each individual piece. A bit over kill, but it made cutting out all the pieces much easier and probably more precise.
Even the stringer slots were dimensioned out on each. Sawed each piece out in the bandsaw. Correct angle,
labeled, with an arrow toward the keel.
To cut the stringer slots, just used the Milwaukee hot saw. I originally had visions of using a 1/4 rougher in the
mill, would have taken forever. This worked really well, slotted them all in just an hour or so.
mill, would have taken forever. This worked really well, slotted them all in just an hour or so.
Below: Here are all the pieces for the ribs, cut and and notched ready to welded up.
The Keel is ready and now all the ribs are ready. Time to make the fixture to weld all this up in, or it is more
accurately known "the strongback". Go to page 4 where that is explained.
accurately known "the strongback". Go to page 4 where that is explained.
Below: Just as with the sections of the keel, each joint is beveled to a 45 degree almost to the center, we want full
welds at the joints. The strength is derived by the sum of it's parts and the assembly is only as strong as the welds.
welds at the joints. The strength is derived by the sum of it's parts and the assembly is only as strong as the welds.
Below: Built a supposed to be temporary table to lay out and weld up on, and while we were building it, one of the guys I
work with decided we needed another table in the shop, so we agreed to do a better more permanent job on it. It's just
2X4's and a sheet of 3/4" MDF, drywall screwed together. It is a nice flat work surface. Cheap enough. I made a little
reference corner to keep all the rib ends the same. Then laid each one out for welding. No clamps were used, so
playing the heat was critical.
work with decided we needed another table in the shop, so we agreed to do a better more permanent job on it. It's just
2X4's and a sheet of 3/4" MDF, drywall screwed together. It is a nice flat work surface. Cheap enough. I made a little
reference corner to keep all the rib ends the same. Then laid each one out for welding. No clamps were used, so
playing the heat was critical.
Below: The joints were welded fully. This is the only place we can really check their shape in between now and chine rail
and skinning time. The weld stops short, this is where a notch will be cut to accommodate the 1/2" diameter chine rail.
Note the arrow on the detail pointing toward the keel
and skinning time. The weld stops short, this is where a notch will be cut to accommodate the 1/2" diameter chine rail.
Note the arrow on the detail pointing toward the keel
Below: In no time at all, we had ribs coming off the table. I hope I'm not kidding myself here. This is going too smooth so
far. Time will tell :)
far. Time will tell :)
Below: Here are all the ribs welded up and ready for the next step
Below: This went really fast too. Just mounted the ribs up in the mill and notched each corner for the chine rail. A 1/2"
rougher made short work of it.
rougher made short work of it.
