Now on to the strongback. This is probably overkill, but I'm a machinist and know that the most important part of
any job is the set up. The better it works and the more control it affords, the better the result. It is just a big box
frame that starts at station two, or the first rib back from the stem and runs all the way back to station 18 or the last
rib. At each station we'll use angle and leave the flange turned out to attach the ribs close to it, and also we'll keep
the dims close on the fab so we can measure off of it accurately. Working with steel, it goes together quick, but if
something is misaligned it's going to be a considerable job to make right.
Bracing is important as we do not want it flexing when we wrap the skin around it. We aren't going to roll form the
skin to shape, so it will have to rely solely on the frame to shape the skin without distortion to the whole assembly
from those forces. We're going to put this fixture on casters so we can move it around easily. The shop is pretty
good size, but we need to keep it flexible in case something large comes in, we can even roll it out to the parking
lot if need be. Hopefully and if everything goes as smooth as it has so far, it should be on a trailer pretty soon
anyways. Gotta build the trailer too. I'm thinking, I may just tack the trailer to the hull with some temporary straps
and when we roll it we'll just set it up right on it's wheels. Our neighbor has a 100 ton crane right outside our door,
the other side of the fence, so we may ask them a favor to flip it. I'll see how it all looks at that point. If we can do it
with our forklift, then so be it. We have a big tire center across the road, we may be able to borrow some used
tires to stack up a bed to roll it over on as well.
Anyways, on with that build. Below is a picture showing the fab up of the top of the strongback. I checked it corner
to corner and it is within 1/16th of an inch. Not getting aggressive with the welds, just several large tacks
minimizes the pull of components.
any job is the set up. The better it works and the more control it affords, the better the result. It is just a big box
frame that starts at station two, or the first rib back from the stem and runs all the way back to station 18 or the last
rib. At each station we'll use angle and leave the flange turned out to attach the ribs close to it, and also we'll keep
the dims close on the fab so we can measure off of it accurately. Working with steel, it goes together quick, but if
something is misaligned it's going to be a considerable job to make right.
Bracing is important as we do not want it flexing when we wrap the skin around it. We aren't going to roll form the
skin to shape, so it will have to rely solely on the frame to shape the skin without distortion to the whole assembly
from those forces. We're going to put this fixture on casters so we can move it around easily. The shop is pretty
good size, but we need to keep it flexible in case something large comes in, we can even roll it out to the parking
lot if need be. Hopefully and if everything goes as smooth as it has so far, it should be on a trailer pretty soon
anyways. Gotta build the trailer too. I'm thinking, I may just tack the trailer to the hull with some temporary straps
and when we roll it we'll just set it up right on it's wheels. Our neighbor has a 100 ton crane right outside our door,
the other side of the fence, so we may ask them a favor to flip it. I'll see how it all looks at that point. If we can do it
with our forklift, then so be it. We have a big tire center across the road, we may be able to borrow some used
tires to stack up a bed to roll it over on as well.
Anyways, on with that build. Below is a picture showing the fab up of the top of the strongback. I checked it corner
to corner and it is within 1/16th of an inch. Not getting aggressive with the welds, just several large tacks
minimizes the pull of components.
My Steamboat Project Link to steamboat show
The Steam tug "Salty" built from Reliable Steams' plans Page 4
The Steam tug "Salty" built from Reliable Steams' plans Page 4
Below: Now we'll build the bottom.
Below: Now we'll add some uprights and make sure to keep them square to the sides. Turning the flange out on each.
Below is the bottom welded up and positioned atop the assembly. We're building this upside down. The boiler is in the
background.
background.
Below : Now to add some 1/8 X 1/2 bracing. It was amazing how much this stiffened up the whole fixture, it was like
handling a solid block of steel afterwards. I think this is going to work just fine.
handling a solid block of steel afterwards. I think this is going to work just fine.
Below : Now to add a 3X3X1/8" tube at each end. Add some thousand pound casters to that and we are about done.
These were added and the fixture was flipped over on it's wheels. I got right in the middle of this and jumped on it and
I'm not a small guy, and it is solid as a rock. This would make a good trestle for a mini railroad - ok back to steamboats :)
Of course, I hate to discard this later, maybe i'll build another. Get brave(r) and play with hull shape.
These were added and the fixture was flipped over on it's wheels. I got right in the middle of this and jumped on it and
I'm not a small guy, and it is solid as a rock. This would make a good trestle for a mini railroad - ok back to steamboats :)
Of course, I hate to discard this later, maybe i'll build another. Get brave(r) and play with hull shape.
Below : Sighting up and down, it all looks good and straight.
Below : Well, what I've been waiting years to do, throw the keel up on this. I still need to add some uprights to attach the
keel to, but it was good to see it at least laying atop. We laid it up there and lashed it. It is a little taller than I wanted, but
I had to find a happy medium, the simple fact is, this isn't a small hull. At the other end, I don't want to have to lay in the
floor to work on the gunwale. So i'll just have to climb a little attaching the skin to the keel. Small price to pay as most of
the work is going to be on the outsides in the chine areas. Especially the chines for the fantail. I was going to get a ring
roller for that, but every one I look at is imported and they aren't receiving very good reviews around the web. So I'll
just make up a form on the new table and bend everything to fit. I can plot out each chine from the CAD. I'll cover that
later. Anyways, what a good sight to behold. The first step of actual hull assembly. At this point, I don't have an
exorbitant amount of time invested. So far, my hunches are proving accurate. You're probably asking "When the heck is
this guy going to cut the excess off that keel?" Well, that was the original plan, but If it is trimmed off now, it will warp
like a big piece of spaghetti from the heat. So we'll weld it all up in the assembly, skin it, then trim it off, It may want to
pull, but it isn't going anywhere then.
keel to, but it was good to see it at least laying atop. We laid it up there and lashed it. It is a little taller than I wanted, but
I had to find a happy medium, the simple fact is, this isn't a small hull. At the other end, I don't want to have to lay in the
floor to work on the gunwale. So i'll just have to climb a little attaching the skin to the keel. Small price to pay as most of
the work is going to be on the outsides in the chine areas. Especially the chines for the fantail. I was going to get a ring
roller for that, but every one I look at is imported and they aren't receiving very good reviews around the web. So I'll
just make up a form on the new table and bend everything to fit. I can plot out each chine from the CAD. I'll cover that
later. Anyways, what a good sight to behold. The first step of actual hull assembly. At this point, I don't have an
exorbitant amount of time invested. So far, my hunches are proving accurate. You're probably asking "When the heck is
this guy going to cut the excess off that keel?" Well, that was the original plan, but If it is trimmed off now, it will warp
like a big piece of spaghetti from the heat. So we'll weld it all up in the assembly, skin it, then trim it off, It may want to
pull, but it isn't going anywhere then.
Below : Looking at this strongback was making me wonder if I missed something as it looked like this was going to
interfere with the hull in a few areas. After looking at the CAD, the problem, I'm not realizing yet, how large this tug is
going to be. Try to get a visual from the cad windows below. This is going to be a BIG 22 foot boat. The calcs say it is still
in the 1400 pound range for the frame and skin.
interfere with the hull in a few areas. After looking at the CAD, the problem, I'm not realizing yet, how large this tug is
going to be. Try to get a visual from the cad windows below. This is going to be a BIG 22 foot boat. The calcs say it is still
in the 1400 pound range for the frame and skin.
Now on to setting the keel in the fixture. Go to page 5
